Like veal shank, veal breast is perfect for braising because both these cuts come from a more active muscle. The breast comes from the lower side of the calf, and looks much like a rack of pork spareribs. Equally important in this economic climate is veal breast, unlike veal shank, loin or chop, is relatively inexpensive and will serve a family of four, with leftovers, easily.
Look for grass-fed, free-range veal for a local farm. One example is Harmony J.A.C.K. Farms, in Scio, Oregon. They produce USDA Certified Organic Zeal, a young, grass & mother’s milk finished beef. This meat comes from calves allowed to roam in pastures and graze on grains and grasses after they have been weaned off mother’s milk. The meat isn’t as white/pink as traditional veal but it has a more veal-ly, grassy favor that actually tastes like meat use to taste.
Many veal breast recipes require you or your butcher to remove the bone and subsequently stuff the breast. I prefer to trim the excess fat and cartilage, forgo the stuffing and leave the bone in. As you will see, meat cooked on the bone will have more body, depth, and real flavor.
This dish is the epitome of “slow food” in every sense of the word. A little time, a little technique and your patients will be amply rewarded with a memorable marriage of rich, deep, gelatinous and mouth dripping flavors; wafting, enticing aromas; and meat so tender it falls apart.
For the Veal
- 5 to 6 pound veal breast, with bone
- vegetable oil, as needed
- 1 onion, peeled and roughly chopped
- 2 each carrots, roughly chopped
- 1 leek, roughly chopped
- 2 parsnips, roughly chopped
- 6 cloves of garlic, peeled
- 2 bay leaves
- 2 sprigs each fresh rosemary, thyme and parsley
- 2 cups dry red wine
- 1 - 12 ounce can whole peeled tomatoes, juice strained and reserved for another use
- 2 quarts roasted chicken stock, veal stock, beef stock or water
- Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
To Prepare the Veal:
- Trim (or have your butcher) trim the excess fat and any connective tissue from the veal breast. Pat dry and season all over with salt and pepper. Move the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 350°F.
- Place a large, wide, high-sided 6-quart heavy pot over medium heat. Add the oil and heat until hot, but not smoking, then and the veal breast. Sear the meat skin-side down until brown and caramelized. Turn and sear on all sides, approximately 12 to 15 minutes. Remove the meat and any excess fat.
- Add the onion, carrots, leek, parsnips, garlic, bay leaves and herbs. Cook 4 to 5 minutes, until the vegetables just begin to caramelize. Add the wine and reduce the liquid until a third of the volume remains. Add the veal, bone side down, tomatoes and stock and bring liquid just to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and cover. Place the covered pot in the oven and cook, making sure the liquid NEVER boils, for approximately 3 hours, or until the meat is just about to fall off the bone.
- Remove the pot from the oven. Carefully remove the veal from, cover the meat and keep warm.
To Prepare the Sugo:
- Strain the cooking liquid into a saucepan. Simmer until liquid is reduced by half or until the liquid just begins to coat the back of a spoon, skimming any fat that rises to the top.
- Taste and adjust seasoning. Keep warm.
To Serve: Cut the veal to make veal breast “chops” and serve with sautéed greens and caramelized root vegetables or a soft polenta and wild mushrooms.
Advance Preparation: The veal can be made several days ahead of serving. The flavors are better and more complex if the veal is allowed to cool and then reheated in the sauce and served the following day.
Substitutions and Options
- A “Sugo”, Italian for sauce, sometimes refers to a ragù, is a long simmered, reduced sauce from which the pieces of meat have been removed.
- You can substitute beef short short ribs, pork shoulder, leg of lamb, beef brisket or even chicken legs for the veal breast.
- Any leftover meat can be shredded and mixed with leftover sauce and made into a luxurious ravioli filling or pasta sauce.
- If you choose not to make your own stock, purchase an organic, natural stock with no added salt.
Wine Notes: The Valtellina area, next to the Swiss border in northern Lombardia, is known for its well-aged reds. Valtellina reds are made from nebbiolo, the majestic grape of the Piemonte region, usually used to make Barolo. The Valtellina version is aromatic, powerful yet soft on the palate with lightly smokey, earthy, dried cherry flavors.
Recommended: Viansa, “La Nebbia” Nebbiolo, Sonoma, California ($23) and the Madroña Vineyards, Nebbiolo, El Dorado County, California ($18) epitomize the Valtellina style. They’re both balance, concentrated and rich; perfect for the unctuous mouth feel of the pasture-raised veal.
Makes 4 entrée servings, with leftovers
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